72 Microseasons of the Pacific Northwest

The hillsides of the Columbia River Gorge erupt each spring in one of the most photographed wildflower displays in the Pacific Northwest. By early May, arrowleaf balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata) — its sunflower-like golden heads on long gray-felted stems — and purple lupine (Lupinus spp.) have carpeted vast south-facing slopes in a spectacle that draws visitors from across the region. The bloom begins in mid-to-late April at lower elevations and continues up the hillsides through early May, with the peak at mid-elevation sites arriving exactly during this period. The best viewing sites are concentrated in the eastern Gorge, where the drier climate and open, rocky slopes favor balsam root and lupine over the wet forest species of the west end. Dog Mountain Trail on the Washington side (Skamania County) is perhaps the most celebrated destination: the upper meadows become a sea of yellow and purple, offering panoramic views of the Columbia far below. Rowena Plateau (Tom McCall Preserve) on the Oregon side near The Dalles is another legendary site, where the Nature Conservancy manages open grasslands rich with both species. Coyote Wall and Dalles Mountain Ranch Loop (Columbia Hills State Park) on the Washington side offer accessible, paved trailheads leading into bloom-covered hillsides. Beyond balsamroot and lupine, the bloom includes desert parsley (Lomatium spp.) with its yellow umbrella-shaped flower clusters, shooting star (Dodecatheon pulchellum), and patches of phlox. Butterflies and native bees are conspicuous visitors to all these flowers. Because the Gorge hosts more than 800 wildflower species — 15 found nowhere else in the United States — no two visits to the same slope look quite the same. Arrive early in the morning to avoid crowds; the light on the golden hillsides in the hour after sunrise is exceptional.